Special Tools:
1/2" drive socket wrench (torque wrench)
1/2" drive 1.5" extension
Parts needed:
Teflon plumbing tape (not manditory, but nice to use)
Differential fluid (these are '95 specs, e-mail
if you find different)
NA: 1.3L or 2 & 3/4pts. of 75W-90
TT: 1.8L or 3 & 7/8pts. of 75W-90
Transmission fluid
NA & TT 5spd: 2.8L or 5 & 7/8pts. of 75W-90 (or Redline MT-90)*
NA auto: 8.3L or 8 & 3/4qts. of ATF
TT auto: 8.2L or 8 & 5/8qts. of ATF
* some people run Redline MTL instead, the MT-90 is thicker and has shown to be better for the syncros.
Procedure:
1. Jack up the car and put it on jack stands. Make sure the Z is level like it would be on the road. Observe all regular safety precautions. Wear safety glasses at all times when under the car (I'm NOT kidding).
Changing the Differential Fluid:
2. Put oil catch pan under the differential.
3. Remove the fill plug with the 1/2" drive extension and socket wrench (1.). On the TT, it's on the passenger side rear of the differential. On the NA, it's on the driver's side.
4. Carefully remove the drain plug with the 1/2" drive socket wrench (2.). On the TT, it's on the driver's side rear of the differential. On the NA, it's on the bottom. The fluid will drain into the catch pan. Be very careful, the fluid isn't like motor oil, it's pretty foul smelling & not pleasant to spill on the floor. I wear rubber gloves while working with it in an attempt to stay clean.
5. While the fluid is draining out, clean off the drain plug, it has a magnet on it to catch all the metal particles (3.). If teflon tape is available, wrap a bit of that around it to aid in sealing the plug.
6. Once the fluid is drained, replace the drain plug & torque to 29-43 ft-lbs for NAs & 43-72 ft-lbs for TTs.
7. Filling the differential and transmission is a little difficult. Most auto parts stores sell hand pumps to move the fluid up into the diff/tanny. I found this to be a MAJOR hand cramping pain in the butt. I found a cheap and much faster way to do it if an air compressor is available. Get 3' of 3/8" O.D. clear vinyl tubing. Cut it into 2' & 1' pieces. Drill two holes in the lid of one of the fluid bottles large enough to cram the tubing through. Make it tight as it's got to maintain some air pressure. Stick the 1' piece an 1" into the lid. Stick the 2' piece 8" into the lid. Put a blower tip in the shorter tube. Put the lid on a full bottle of fluid (4.). Crank down the pressure regulator on the air compressor to 30 psi. Then it's all easy. Just stick the longer hose up into the diff/tranny's fill hole and apply air pressure to the shorter tube. The air pressure will force the lubricant up the longer hose and into the case. At 30 psi, it'll drain a .9L bottle in 30 seconds or less. WARNING: Do NOT try this if unable to regulate the air pressure. I promise a Redline bottle under 125 psi will not last long and you'll end up with a very oily mess at the very least.
8. Using whatever means of filling the differential required, push the fluid in until it dribbles back out of the filler hole. When it does this, it's full. Replace the filler plug and torque to 29-43 ft-lbs (both NA & TT). Put the car back on the ground if finished.
Changing the Manual Transmission Fluid:
9. Put oil catch pan under the transmission.
10. Remove the fill plug with the 1/2" drive extension and socket wrench (5.). It's on the passenger side rear of the transmission.
11. Carefully remove the drain plug with the 1/2" drive socket wrench (6.). The fluid will drain into the catch pan. Like on the differential, be very careful, the fluid isn't like motor oil, it's pretty foul smelling & not pleasant to spill on the floor. I wear rubber gloves while working with it in an attempt to stay clean.
12. While the fluid is draining out, clean off the drain plug, it has a magnet on it to catch all the metal particles (3.). If teflon tape is available, wrap a bit of that around it to aid in sealing the plug.
13. Once the fluid is drained, replace the drain plug & torque to 18-25 ft-lbs (both NA & TT). I personally thought this was rather light, so I bumped it up to 35 ft-lbs.
14. Using whatever means of filling the transmission required (see step 7.), push the fluid in until it dribbles back out of the filler hole. When it does this, it's full. Replace the filler plug and torque to 18-25 ft-lbs (both NA & TT). Put the car back on the ground if finished.
Changing the Automatic Transmission Fluid:
As I said at the top, I've never done this, but here's the run down from the manual:
15. Warm up the car before jacking it up.
16. Drain the fluid from the drain plug. Something like picture 6. but different. The plug should be 14 mm instead of the 1/2" drive version.
17. Clean up the drain plug, I'm guessing it's like the manual transmission's, and replace it. Torque the plug to 22-29 ft-lbs.
18. Refill the transmission. I'm guessing through the fluid level dipstick hole. At least that's how it's done on other cars. As always, the manual is very unspecific.
20. Idle the engine for 5 minutes.
21. Check the fluid level and condition by placing car in 'P' and checking the 'hot' level on the dipstick. If fluid is still dirty, repeat steps 16-21 (whew, another EIGHT liters... $$$). If fluid is low, add to correct level.
22. Put the car back on the ground if finished. Make sure to check the fluid level at the next 'cold' chance.
Originally published 8-3-99
© Twin Turbo Zs of Dallas - All Rights Reserved 1999
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